R. Craig Collins > Web Page Design > Portfolio > Lisbon, Portugal
Summer 2018, Lisboa (Lisbon), Portugal © R. Craig Collins, 2018
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Plans are useless, but planning is indispensable
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La Quinta Atlanta
12:00 to ATL
The Parque das Nações
Alfama and Baixa districts
Belem district of Lisbon, Belem is reached by travelling on the number 15 tram.
Train from Lisbon
Train to LisbonJardim Gracia De Orta
• Palácio Nacional de Sintra
Carmo Convent Ruins
Lisboa card, Travel for free and enjoy free access to Lisbon’s best museums and attractions with the Lisboa Card.
Link to attractions covered by card Link my notes on attractions covered by car d (xlsx)
Lisbon Card Guide http://www.askmelisboa.com/media/wysiwyg/Guia_LxCard_PT_1aEdi.pdf
Things to do in Lisbon
Sweet Lisbon Guesthouse, River view with private WC
Some helpful English to Portuguese words and phrases Useful phrases
To the travel blog, and of course the pictures, when we get back
More Maps Below Giant pdf map
Tuesday, Travel interrupted
Thursday,Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Tile Museum ); The Parque das Nações
Friday,Alfama and Baixa districts; ; Costelo; Roman theatre; Se Cathedral; Lisboa Story Center; Comércio Plaza/ Arco du Rua Augusta; Santa Justa Elevator; Praça Rossio; Miradouro de Santa Luzia viewpoint; National Pantheon; Miradouro de Santa Estêvão viewpoint
Saturday,Belem district of Lisbon; Pier 7; National Coach Museum; Discovery Monument; National Archeology Museum/ Jeronimos church and monastery; Tower of Belem; Gulbenkian; Comércio Plaza
Sunday, Cascais; Boca do Inferno; Fortress; Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães; Park; Museu Paula Rego; Train to Lisbon; Jardim Gracia De Orta
Monday, The historic centre of Sintra; Castelo dos Mouros; Palácio da Pena; Quinta da Regaleira; Tivoli; Monserrate; Cabo da Roca; Azenhas do Mar; Surf beaches; Palácio Nacional de Sintra; Historic centre of Sintra; Train to Lisbon; Carmo Convent Ruins
(Scroll down for A LOT OF DETAILS on places visited, and of course, the pictures once we return)
Under construction, later scroll down for TONS of info... travel blog will be finished shortly... honest.
Tuesday, July 31:
8:45 to AUS
10:05 Check in
11:00 We split an Egg Cheese Muffin from Ruta Maya and Susann had a coffee.
About 12:15 pm, we boarded our AUS-ATL flight # DL2402, sitting in seats 22 B/C.
About half way to Atlanta, we were told STORMS has shut down ATL, and we entered a holding pattern.
After circling for ages, we were diverted to Little Rock, as the crew was timing out.
We landed in Little Rock when we should have been boarding our Lisbon plane.
At first we were told to go to the check in, then we were told we would be put up for the night, then we were told they would get us to Atlanta and to go back to the gate (neat trick without Little Rock boarding passes, and then we were told our flight would be delayed, so we all got in a line to try and get rebooked on flights to Atlanta, and beyond. It was a mess trying to get on a new flight when they had not cancelled the old flight.
That is when we discovered, of course, that our flight to Lisbon had departed without us.
8:00 pm we boarded LIT-ATL on flight # DL 2501 25 A/B, sitting in seats 25 A-B. We took off at 8:39
10:45 pm Atlanta time, landed... but we were on the ramp until 11:30 pm... we used the time to book a hotel at a La Quinta that had shuttle service to and from the airport. It was a hike to the bus stand, but we made it to the hotel. Glad we booked from the plane, as some people were turned away.
Ths is what our pile of boarding passes looked like at the end of the day.
Midnight, we check in the La Quinta. We walked across the street to a Waffle House for an egg sandwich and hashbrown plate, since we hadn't eaten in about 13 hours, then tried to change our airport transfer. The booking company said they would try to reschedule our pickup.
Wednesday, Aug 1:
O'dark thirty, we get a phone call from the Lisbon shuttle company... the booking company had obviously not been able to change the booking.
8:30 I got up and grabbed some breakfast for us before they shut down service at 9:00, and we finally hit the check out desk promptly at Noon.
12:05 pm We took the shuttle to the airport and bounced around trying to figure out what terminal we were leaving from; they don't display flight info until a few hours before departure, and we had like 5 hours to wait... Google could only tell us the Internation Terminal. Finally we found an info desk, where we were told to head back to Terminal E.
2:00 pm ish Grabbed a Ziti salad from Nature's Table, and Susann grabbed a coffee for lunch.
5:30 We boarded our next day flight #DL 122 to Lisboa, now in seats 20 A-B.
And the rain started.
7:55 our flight to LIS (Portela) finally took off.
About 10:00 pm we had chicken salad, spinach, cheese, and a blondie.
For breakfast, we had yogurt, a muffin, and cheese.
Thursday, Aug 2:
9:00, only about 26 hours late, we arrive in Lisbon.
9:30 we grab our Lisbon Cards, and since we had no transfer, headed to to the Metro station, to ride to the Oriente station, where we could grab a train to St. Apolónia station, near our hotel.
We popped up from the Metro to a mall, and could not find the train station. How do you lose a train station? It was UP. We had to take stairs up to some side cubbies hidden from view of the main area to get to the trains. Days later we found one very small sign with a train icon on a staircase, but that was it. But in our defence, we were shot and frazzled by this time.
We hoped the next train headed to St. Apolóni, and exited the station, and walked to Calçada do Forte... and stared at the steepest hill we had ever seen. I mean literally, the steepest hill ever.
We dragged our bags up the HILL (yellow on the map), and turned onto Rua do Paraíso and walked to number 15.
View of "the HILL," looking down from the top.
10:00 Sweet Lisbon Guesthouse, River view with private WC
The elevator was stuck on the top floor, so I walked up to the 5th floor, and rode the elevator down.
We all rode back up, and checked in to our room.
Our view of the Tagus
The train station, and the Tagus river beyond
11:15, after settling in, we walked to the bus station, and rode to the Tile museum.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Tile Museum);
FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 42 in the Lisboa Card book attractions covered by card
718 to Linha Sintra, or 794 Estação Oriente
The first thing we noticed was it was hot, I mean really hot. The next thing we noticed was there were two fans by the admissions desk, but no where else.
No Air Conditioning. And the heat wave on the Iberian peninsula was just starting.
2:00 There was a café in the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Tile Museum), so we sat down and waited for ages until the waiter came by.
We had quiche, corn salad, some fresh cheese, and bread for €11,35, and we rounded up as do the locals for a tip.
I checked the bus schedule, and we headed to the bus stop where we were entertained by a few very loud locals.
We took the bus back to near the hotel, hiked the rest of the way, and decided to take a short nap. We opened the french doors wide to let the breeze in (no A/C in the hotel, as it is not normally needed); little did we know that this would be as cool as we got until the end of the trip, because it never really cooled off as the heat just kept climbing.
5:15, down the hill to the metro, and a a ride back to Oriente, home to the train station we had trouble with earlier, the metro station, and Centro Vasco da Gama shopping centre.
Money Saving Tip: The food court in the Centro Vasco da Gama shopping centre is home to many excellent yet inexpensive eating establishments.
So, we sat down at Pan & Co. and each had a Frango Bacon Jr. (chicken sandwhich with tea and fries), for €7,90.
Just outside the shopping center was the Parque das Nações http://lisbonlisboaportugal.com/lisbon-sights/Parque-Nacoes-lisbon.html
We decided to skip the Oceanarium and headed toward the Vasco da Gama tower (Lisbon’s tallest building) and the Vasco da Gama bridge (once Europe’s longest bridge), to get to the north station of the
Teleférico cable car... they were about to shut down, so we took a one way ride south for €7,10 (Lisboa Card book p.87), then head back to the Vasco da Gama mall, passing through the exhibits of Expo 98, including the Jardins Garcia d’Orta Gardens
|Teleférico cable car over Parque das Nações and Jardins Garcia d’Orta Gardens
Centro Vasco da Gama
8:30 Back in the mall, we decided to try the national dessert of Portugal, Pastel de Nata, an egg tart pastry for €2,40 for both.
Pastéis de nata were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery. At the time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching clothes, such as nuns' habits. It was quite common for monasteries and convents to use the leftover egg yolks to make cakes and pastries, resulting in the proliferation of sweet pastry recipes throughout the country.
9:00, we stopped in the Hyper Continente grocery store and got some cookies for €1,39, and took the train back to St. Apolonia.
The Museu Militar (Military Museum) across the street, at the base of THE HILL, was nicely lit
Museu Militar Family: 5.00€ 10:00-17:00
After trudging up the hill, we got back to the hotel, and opened up the french doors, to try and catch a breeze.
10:15pm It was still over 90° outside (and inside, sadly); tired, we turned in, with a Fado violin playing in the distance. This was replaced by the occasional siren and boat whistle during the night..
Friday, Aug 3:
6:30 am, view from our room, note the construction equipment that would bother us for the rest of the trip if we were in the room during the day.
8:00 am, Breakfast: ham, cheese and bread, plus coffee for Susann... they also had cereal and cake.
View from breakfast room window, the Pantheon
Alfama and Baixa districts of Lisbon
8:35, the fastest way to the Castelo Sao Jorge was to walk
9:00, arrived at the Castle. €17,00
*Castelo Sao Jorge 8,50€ 9:00-21:00 http://castelodesaojorge.pt/en/tickets-schedule-and-information/
View of Carmo Convent Ruins and
Santa Justa Elevator from Castelo Sao Jorge below,
5.00€ -20% 10:00-19:00 p. 72 FREE w/ Card 7:30-23:00 p. 20 attractions covered by card
... the yellow line approximates the cliff face of the upper city and lower city that the elevator goes up to
More Castelo Sao Jorge
View of the Comércio Plaza and Arco du Rua Augusta from Castelo Sao Jorge
Interesting Souvenir shops, we bought a rooster.. €10,00
Roman Theatre ruins, FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p.47 attractions covered by card
Tram 28, FREE w/ Card 7:30-23:00 p. 15 attractions covered by card
There is a tram that runs a route between a lot of the tourist sites, but the lines were always long and we could walk...
*Se Cathedral Free Cloister: €2.50 Treasury: €2.50 Cloister and treasury: €4 combo 7:00-19:00 https://www.lisbon.net/lisbon-cathedral
Lisboa Story Center FREE w/ Card 10:00-20:00 p. 11 attractions covered by card
The Lisboa Story Center has a lot of audio video and movies telling the history of the city.
Comércio Plaza, looking at the Arco du Rua Augusta
Comércio Plaza, looking toward the Cais das Colunas
Arco du Rua August
View from the top of the Arco du Rua Augusta toward Castelo Sao Jorge hill, and Se Cathedral
Arco du Rua August FREE w/ Card 9:00-21:00 p. 12 attractions covered by card
View from the top of the Arco du Rua Augusta, Looking toward Praça Rossio the heart of Lisbon, and Praça Dom Pedro IV
View from the top of the Arco du Rua Augusta, Looking toward Comércio Plaza and Cais das Colunas
We stopped by the Elevator, but the line was too long, and it was 106° out, so we got off the roof and walked on the shady side of the street,
Praça Rossio, and the park area Praça DomPedro IV
Looking up toward Restauradores,
We stopped in at Beira Gare for lunch, and had Cod and soup, €16,00. No air conditioning, of course. Nice view of the Rossio train station.
3:00 pm We went to the train station and caught a Metro back to "our" neigborhood and walked up the hill to the
National Pantheon, or Panteão Nacional, free with our Pass.. attractions covered by card
Panteão Naciona was once the Church of Santa Engrácia ( Igreja de Santa Engrácia) and was built in 17th-century. In 1916, during the First Portuguese Republic, the Church was converted into a National Pantheon, but it was completed only in 1966, during the government of the Dictator António de Oliveira Salazar. The personalities entombed here include the Presidents of the Republic Manuel de Arriaga, Teófilo Braga, Sidónio Pais and Óscar Carmona, Presidential candidate Humberto Delgado, writers João de Deus, Almeida Garrett, Guerra Junqueiro, Aquilino Ribeiro and Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, fado singer Amália Rodrigues, and footballer Eusébio. There are cenotaphs to Luís de Camões, Pedro Álvares Cabral, Afonso de Albuquerque, Nuno Álvares Pereira, Vasco da Gama and Henry the Navigator.
After freshening up, back at the hotel, we jumped on the Metro and went to visit the Gulbenican, but our guide book had lied and they were closing...
we walk back throught the park, past some neat architecture...
to ride back to Restauradores to see if the lines were shorter at the Tram 28 staring point... no,
so back to Elevator to see if the lines were shorter... no,
so back on a metro to Oriente, and from there we headed to Alenteja for Bitoque frango, a steak (or chicken dish in our case) with potatoes, and an egg on top... €12,40
We took a metro to Alfama and walked the hills to
*Miradouro de Santa Luzia viewpoint, a courtyard in front of a church on a hill overlooking the river and the city.
Free. 24 hr http://www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/santa-luzia.html
9:00pm back at the hotel, we had some cake left over from breakfas. Map of some of the places we visited...
Saturday. Aug 4: originally we had planned a day trip to Sintra, but instead we went to Belem.
Belem district of Lisbon, Belem is reached by travelling on the number 15 tram.
Pier 7 Experience at the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge has a museum, which includes an elevator up to the bridge deck area, with views over the estuary and the golden suspension bridge
FREE w/ Card 10:00-20:00 p. 32 attractions covered by card
Views from Pier 7
National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches)
FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 17 attractions covered by card
On May 23, 1905 the “Royal Coach Museum” was inaugurated in Lisbon by initiative of Queen Amélia of Orleans and Bragança, Princess of France, daughter of the Count of Paris, who married King Carlos I of Portugal in 1886.The location chosen to accommodate the world’s first coach museum was in the antique hall of the Royal Riding School modified, specifically to this end, by the Court’s architect, Rosendo Carvalheira in collaboration with the painters José Malhoa and Conceição e Silva who, together, were able to achieve an almost perfect harmony between the location and the exhibition of State Vehicles.
Despite the great success, the lack of space was evident, and so in 1906, the Queen herself ordered a new project to extend the museum, so that the remaining vehicles of the Royal House, still stored in the many mews of the different palaces, could be exhibited.
Following the establishment of the Republic, on October 5, 1910, the museum’s collection grows, not only due to the arrival of a set of coaches and berlins from the extinct Royal House, but also due to the arrival of vehicles from the Church’s estate.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos Discovery Monument 5,00€ -30% 10:00-19:00 p. 36 http://www.padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/
Torre de Belem FREE w/ Card 10:00-17:00 p. 14 attractions covered by card
Built on the northern bank of the Tagus between 1514 and 1520 as part of the Tagus estuary defence system
Lunch at Vela Latina, near Torre de Belém.
We then walked to the National Archeology Museum FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 41 attractions covered by card
Part of the former Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, the construction of the monastery and church began on 6 January 1501, and was completed 100 years later
Jeronimos Church and Monastery FREE w/ Card 10:00-17:00 p. 13 attractions covered by card
(?) Museu de Marinha 5.00€ -33% 10:00-17:00 p. 67 http://ccm.marinha.pt/pt/museu
If you have time, some of the other places nearby include
Museum of Ethnology FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 43
Ajuda National Palace (Decorative Arts) FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 31
Basilica da Estrela Free 8am to 1pm and 3pm to 8pm 1.50€ nativity scene 4€ dome climb
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga FREE w/ Card 10:00-18:00 p. 18 paintings, sculpture, drawings, gold and silverware and jewellery, ceramics, textiles and furniture.
4:00 Since we lost a day, we had to pass on these, and instead went back to the Gulbenkian.
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
12,5€ -20% 10:00-18:00 Friday until 22:00 p. 69 https://gulbenkian.pt/en/
The Founder's collection includes more than six thousand pieces amassed by private collector Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian, and is located in the north of the Gulbenkian garden
We headed back through the park, and took the metro back to Vasco de Gamma and had Pizza Hut €16,35,
then took the metro to Comércio Plaza, just below the Cathedral.
We walked back toward Rossio and tried again to ride the Elevator: still a big nope, so back to the hotel as the sun set.
Sunday, Aug 5 (Anniversary):
Day 5 Cascais
9:00 Metro to Rossio
9:20 Train to Cascais
10:10 Arrive in Cascais, a beach town East of Lisboa
We could see the Praia da Conceição beach as we walked past Praia da Rainha... a beach area near the City Center..
Praia da Rainha
Palácio da Cidadela de Cascais
More fun old cars
Lighthouse of Santa Marta cove
Across the bridge from Santa Marta cove
• Walking to Boca do Inferno, scenic oceanfront cliffs feature a natural archway & open cave
Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth)
We bought some magnets *€8,00) and a bunch of water (€2,40), as we had drained our supply.
We then set of back to Cascais, and went to the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães
The S. Sebastião Tower, now the Condes de Castro Guimarães Museum-Library, dates from the beginning of the 20th century and was built on the initiative of the aristocrat Jorge O'Neil.
In 1910, the palace was sold to the Counts of Castro Guimarães; when he died in 1927, the Count left the house and property to the Municipality of Cascais so that a House-Museum and Public Garden could be set up in them.
• Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães 4,00€
We then walked around Parque Marechal Carmona, which was full of chickens and peacocks freely wandering around
Then we found a dressage event.
We then walked to Casa das Histórias Paula Rego gallery
The two pyramid-shaped towers and the red-coloured concrete are very distinctive, and the mature trees of the park have been incorporated as elements in the design.
The building consists of four wings, of different heights and sizes, subdivided into connecting rooms that are laid out around a central room.
Dame Rego is a Portugueses born visual artist known for her paintings and prints based on storybooks.
We then headed east to Pestana Cidadela Cascais, a hotel within the old fortress.
• Fortaleza da Nossa Senhora da Luz/Fortress of Our Lady of Light
We had hoped to find lunch, but no such luck, so north to the
• Historic centre around the Câmara Municipal/Town Hall
Lunch, John Bull Ham and melon, spaghetti, Chicken Salad, 31,00€
We then walked northwest to Jardim Visconde da Luz
We wanted to visit Grutas do Poço Velho cavern, but it was closed.
They had a picture of part of the carvern over the door...
Near the train station, we saw the promenade from the Praia da Conceição from Cascais to Estoril, then got on the train.
After returning to Lisboa, it was actually cooling off... so he headed to the Vasco de Gama for rotissery chicken dinner at Vasio, with rice and Salad €11,45
After dinner, we took a walk through Jardin Garcia d'Orta
Back to Vasco de Gama, and Pan & Co. for Nata and juice €2,90, before riding the train back to the hotel.
Monday, Aug 6:
10:00 Checked in for flight back home, then headed to the Rossio train station to head to Sintra, in the mountains .p. 26 attractions covered by card
On the way, we passed some Roman aquaducts.
Arriving at the train station, we could see the Moorish castle perched on the mountain
Castelo dos Mouros
We had considered taking the tourist bus to all the palaces, etc., but the lines were huge... that is when we saw Amigo Fred.
For €100,00, he told us he could take us around in his VW Bug convertible, and see all the sights...
Drive past the palaces, many of the Quintas, visit Cabo da Roca, the Westernmost point in Europe, the hillside village of Praia das Azenhas do Mar, and so on...
since the food had been so cheap we had money left over, so we took him up on it.
PALÁCIO NACIONAL DE SINTRA
Fred explained the forest had trees brought in from all over the world.
We got great views of the Moorish Castle, Castelo dos Mouros
This ruinous castle is the oldest structure in the city. Originally dating back to the 9th century, the North African Moors originally constructed this castle to guard the town of Sintra, although it fell into disrepair after the Christian conquest of Portugal. The crumbling ruins offer panoramic views of the surrounding area.
The white National Palace in the valley, and the Moorish Castel on the mountain
We saw a cork tree, and Eucalyptus.
Palacio da Pena: Sintra’s most spectacular and famous site is the colourful, ornate and grand Palacio da Pena, which is constructed on one of the highest peaks.The castle's history started in the Middle Ages when a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena was built on the top of the hill above Sintra. According to tradition, construction occurred after an apparition of the Virgin Mary.
In 1493, King John II, accompanied by his wife Queen Leonor, made a pilgrimage to the site to fulfill a vow. His successor, King Manuel I, was also very fond of this sanctuary, and ordered the construction of a monastery on this site which was donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. For centuries Pena was a small, quiet place for meditation, housing a maximum of eighteen monks.
In the 18th century the monastery was severely damaged by lightning. However, it was the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, occurring shortly afterwards, that took the heaviest toll on the monastery, reducing it to ruins. Nonetheless, the chapel (and its works of marble and alabaster attributed to Nicolau Chanterene) escaped without significant damage.
For many decades the ruins remained untouched, but they still astonished young prince Ferdinand. In 1838, as King consort Ferdinand II, he decided to acquire the old monastery, all of the surrounding lands, the nearby Castle of the Moors and a few other estates in the area. King Ferdinand then set out to transform the remains of the monastery into a palace that would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family.
Quinta da Regaleira
The Palacio de Monserrate
Monserrate Palace: The actual palace was imagined by an Englishman, Sir Francis Cook, who decided to build a summer residence from the ruins of a pre-existent neo-gothic palace around 1860
Heading Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point in Europe
Cabo de Roca, the westernmost point in Europe
Yes, the water was that blue
Back in the bug, heading toward Azenhas Do Mar
Azenhas Do Mar
Azenhas Do Mar looked like the a town on a greek isle, settled into the cliffs over the ocean.
Back to Sintra, and the tiles and architecture
Fred dropped us off near the Royal Palace, in Sintra.
Lunch at Cafe da Villa: Olives, bread, burgers, fries, beer, cake and coffee. 22,75€
We picked up some souveniers for 2,50€ on the windy road back to the station.
A neat hotel
Train back to Rossio, and we invested 1,00€ for a WC
We went to the ruined Carmo Convent, on the high side of the cliff in Lisboa, near the Elevator
Souveniers for 9,00€
After seeing the Hill, we headed back to the hotel and arranged for breakfast, and packed.
We had souveniers for 122,00 € left, which we would convert to British Pounds in the morning, for our next trip.
Tuesday, Aug 7: Travel
6:00 to LIS
7:00 Check in
DL 123 37 A,B
DL 1082 22 B,C
Near the Hotel