R. Craig Collins > Web Page Design > Portfolio > Helsinki Finland & Tallinn Estonia

March 2017, Helsinki/Turku, Finland (Suomi in Finnish) & Tallinn, Estonia © R. Craig Collins, 2017

to Travelblog (My planning details for now)

Sites I used while on the Road

To Planning Maps (Lots of maps are also in the Travelblog)

The Plan (details below as they become available)
March 11 Visit the Orthodox Cathedral, Visit the Helsinki Cathedral, Panorama Helsinki Tour to get our bearings in Helsinki, Take Ferry to Suomenlinna, the 18th Century Sea Fortress and Museums near Helsinki
March 12 Take Train to 13th Century Turku Castle, visit Cathedral, Sibelius Museum, City Center
March 13 Take Ferry to Tallinn, Estonia, explore Old Town, Ferry back to Helsinki
March 14 Still sorting out which Helsinki sights and museums to visit, such as the Helsinki City Museums, Bank of Finland, National Museum of Finland, Ateneum and Sinebrychoff Art Museums

To the travel blog, and of course the pictures

The Trip (Scroll down for A LOT OF DETAILS on places visited, and of course, the pictures)

Thursday, March 09: Home to AUS 4:00-5:15, AUS-DTW 7:00-11:16 DL 844, DTW-AMS 3:46-5:40 DL 132
Friday,  March 10: DTW-AMS 3:46-5:40 DL 132, AMS-HEL 9:50-13:15 KLM 1167, Purchase Travel Card , Yellow Line Shared Ride HEL - Hotel Katajanokka, explore island
Saturday, March 11: , Panorama Helsinki Tour, visit Helsinki Cathedral, visit Suomenlinna, Explore
Sunday, March 12: Helsinki - Turku VR IC 945 8:37-10:30 Coach 5 51-52 Turku city bus pass 7,50€ Cathedral Maritime Museum, Castle, Sibelius Museum, city center; Turku - Helsinki VR IC 966 17:30-19:26 Coach 2 51-52
Monday, March 13: Ferry Helsinki-Tallinn 11:30-2:30 Viking Line Explore Old Town and Castle, Ferry Tallinn-Helsinki 18:00-20:30 Viking Line
Tuesday, March 14: Visit Orthodox Cathedral, Helsinki City Museum, Kampi Chapel, Ateneum, Design Museum, and Finland National Museum
Wednesday, March 15: Yellow Cab to HEL 4:00-5:00, HEL-AMS 7:00-8:50 KLM 1164, AMS-MSP 10:40-13:54 DL 161, MSP-AUS 17:35-20:29 DL 5145, AUS - Home 21:00-22:30

Thursday, March 09:
Home to AUS 4:00-5:15
AUS-DTW 7:00-11:16 DL 844
DTW-AMS 3:46-5:40 DL 132

Friday,  March 10:
DTW-AMS 3:46-5:40 DL 132
AMS-HEL 9:50-13:15 KLM 1167
Purchase Travel Card at R Kiosk in the terminal €45,00
Yellow Line Shared Ride from HEL to Hotel, I recognized Katajanokka area streets from my time exploring on Google Street View

14:30 Check in at Hotel Katajanokka

Our room once house the Finnish equivalent of Clyde, from Bonnie and Clyde... a famous and well loved bank robber named Volvo Markkanen, so named for his stealing of a Volvo

15:30 We explored Katajanokka island
Lots of building for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and concrete Turtles. We grabbed some cookies at the Alepa (€1,09), then ate pizza with a Fanta at Katajanokan Pizza (€8,70).

I believe these were the only two places we had a small language issue.... Alepa did not want to take our small change, and the pizza folks didn't believe we were sharing the small pizza and one drink.
We did study Finnish, had Finnish and Estonia cheat sheets, and tried to converse in Finnish when we could; but we were jet lagged at the end of this very long day.

The bay, on the north side of the island, the the wonderful Uspenski Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox church near the bridge to the main land (see map below).

Looking across to the mainland, and Market Square. We passed the Ferris Wheel, and were tempted to ride in the sauna car, but passed on the opportunity. Past Uspenski again.


Uspenski Cathedral (Uspenskin katedraali)
Pormestarinrinne 1
Completed in 1868 in the Katajanokka district of Helsinki, the Uspenski Cathedral is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and redbrick facade, the church is one of the clearest symbols of the Russian impact on Finnish history.
http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/sights-and-attractions/uspenski-orthodox-cathedral    
No Cost
Mon closed, Tue-Fri 9.30-16, Sat 10-15, Sun 12-15

Some architecture that caught my eye...

Our route, starting and ending at the Hotel Katajanokka

Some maps come from Google Maps

17:30, back at the hotel for cookies, and some sleep after a very long day.

Saturday, March 11:
7:30 Breakfast in the basement, where they still have some old cells left untouched...
The breakfast buffet included cheese, meats, sausage, eggs, bacon, griddle cake, bread, juice, fruit, and Danish pastry; Susann enjoyed the fancy coffee machine, and all served with tin cups and plates.

		Loved the tin cups and tin plates.

Touring the prison exhibits... the group holding cell from the 1800s, and the solitary confinement cell from the 1990s

8:40 Then off to Senate Square, and the Helsinki Cathedral.

Panorama of Senate Square from in front of Helsinki Cathedral; across the street on the East side of the Cathedral was the University Library.



Senate Square and Helsinki Cathedral.

Helsinki was established as a trading town by King Gustav I of Sweden in 1550 as the town of Helsingfors, which he intended to be a rival to the Hanseatic city of Reval (today known as Tallinn). Little came of the plans as Helsinki remained a tiny town plagued by poverty, wars, and diseases. It was not until Russia defeated Sweden in the Finnish War and annexed Finland as the autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland in 1809 that the town began to develop into a substantial city, being cemented when Russian Emperor Alexander I of Russia moved the Finnish capital from Turku to Helsinki in 1812. That is when what we now see really came about.
Some dates and facts come from Wikipedia

• Senate Square
  The Senate Square and its surroundings form a unique and cohesive example of Neoclassical architecture. The square is dominated by four buildings designed by Carl Ludvig Engel between 1822 and 1852: Helsinki Cathedral, the Government Palace, the main building of the University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland. Helsinki Cathedral is arguably Finland's most famous and photographed building; it celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2002. The oldest stone building in Helsinki is the Sederholm House located on the southeast corner of the square. The Senate Square also hosts a sound installation called the Sound of the Senate Square. It is a modern version of the European glockenspiel and can be heard every day at 17:49 as it travels from one building to the next. The composition runs for 5 minutes and 18 seconds and is composed by Harri Viitanen and Jyrki Alakuijala. http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/sights-and-attractions/senate-square
  No Cost
  24/7
• Helsinki Cathedral
  Unioninkatu 29, 00170 Helsinki
  is the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran cathedral of the Diocese of Helsinki, located in the neighborhood of Kruununhaka in the center of Helsinki, Finland. The church was originally built from 1830-1852 as a tribute to the Grand Duke of Finland, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. It was also known as St Nicholas' Church until the independence of Finland in 1917.
  http://www.helsinginkirkot.fi/en/churches/cathedral or helsinkicathedral.fi
  Cost Free
  While we were there, the Helsinki Cathedral was closed for organ repair work on weekdays until  March 17.
  On Saturdays & Sundays, Helsinki Cathedral was be open at 9 am−6 pm.

The interior of the fairly austere Cathedral.

• Near by: Bank of Finland Museum
  Snellmaninkatu 2, 00101 Helsinki, Finland
  The Bank of Finland Museum's displays include the history of money in Finland and abroad as well as the role of the Bank of Finland in the European System of Central Banks. The Bank of Finland Museum has especially been designed for school pupils and students, and a visit to the Museum can be used as part of teaching social studies and economics. At the same time, the Museum serves all those interested in the history of money and the European system of central banks.
  http://www.rahamuseo.fi/en/
  Free
  Tuesday to Friday 11.00-17.00
  Saturday to Sunday 11.00-16.00.

We then walked the Esplanade

We then walked over to Market square, and wandered inside the Old Market Hall.

• Market Square
  Perhaps stroll by;  Located in the South Harbor at the very beginning of the Esplanade Park, the Market Square is Helsinki's most international and famous market. The booths here sell traditional market foods and treats, as well as handicrafts and souvenirs. There is also a heated café tent where you can comfortably sip steaming hot coffee even on the coldest days in winter.
  http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/shopping/market-square
  no Cost
  Mon-Fri 6.30-18, Sat 6.30-16,
• Old Market Hall
  The Old Market Hall in Helsinki has served its customers since 1889. Merchants sell everything from cheese, fish, shellfish, vegetable, fruit and cakes to spices, coffee and tea. They are also more than happy to help with any special orders.
  http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/shopping/old-market-hall
  no Cost
  Mon-Sat 8-18, Sun closed.

Then we walked to the Train Station, and the Square near by, complete with an Ice Rink.

We had a little time to kill, so we wandered the area, including the Fashion Gallery, to see if there were food shop options. There were a few diners, but a little pricey for us... but we did see an advertisement for a special at Hessburger, and made a note of that for future reference. We stopped off at the Tourist Office, then took our Bus Tour, which started in the Esplanade.

• Helsinki Tourist Information
  Pohjoisesplanadi 19
  http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en
  No Cost
  15.9.-14.5. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

• Gray Line/Esplanade Park
  NW Fabianinkatu @ Pohjoisesplanadi
  http://www.grayline.com/tours/helsinki/helsinki-panorama-sightseeing-by-bus-8243_6/
  ~$35 ea paid
  11:00-12:45

10:45 The bus arrived, already full of passengers from the Ocean Liner and Ferry terminal.

The driver spoke perfect English, because he was English. "The tour takes in the most interesting parts of Helsinki, such as the historical center, City Hall, The Parliament buildings, Finlandia Hall and the Opera House. The bus stops near the Temppeliaukio Church (Rock Church) and passes the Sibelius Monument ."

Some pictures take while on tour... the Ferry Terminal (yes those are ferries, not ocean liners), and some of the ice locked islands near the Terminal (D on the image above).

We saw thousands of boat in storage, heard about Saunas, saw some of the parks and grand buildings, such as the Opera, and the site of the 1952 Olympics. The Sibelius Monument was neat, and we got a good sense of the city.

We did get off the bus to see the Rock Church.

• (Rock Church) Temppeliaukio
  May visit on Panoramic tour
  Temppeliaukio Church is a Lutheran church in the Töölö neighborhood of Helsinki. The church was designed by architects and brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and opened in 1969.
  http://www.helsinginkirkot.fi/en/churches/rock-church-temppeliaukio
  3€
  Hours vary

"Excavated directly into solid rock, the Temppeliaukio church is situated in the heart of Helsinki, at the end of Fredrikinkatu. Because of its special architecture, the church, completed in 1969, is one of the main attractions in Helsinki. The church hall is covered with a dome, lined with copper and supported on the rock walls by reinforced concrete beams. The interior walls are of rugged rock and rubble wall. Before noon, the light spreads from the row of windows surrounding the roof periphery to the altar wall, where an ice-age crevice serves as the altarpiece. Due to its excellent acoustics the church is a popular venue for concerts."
http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/sights-and-attractions/temppeliaukio-church-rock-church

12:45, we walked to Market Square and checked the Ferry schedule to Suomenlinna...
we had a few minutes, so we went into the Old Market Hall and split a cucumber and cheese sandwich, and Susann had a Latte, from Robert's. €9,10.

13:40, we boarded the Ferry, which was also an Ice Breaker, to head out to the Island that housed a fortress second only to Gibraltar, Suomenlinna. http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/

• Suomenlinna,
  The Suomenlinna Visitor Centre serves visitors in the pink Jetty Barracks building right next to the ferry harbour. The Visitor Centre staff will gladly give you tips for your visit and tell you, which sights are open at the time. There is also an introductory exhibition available free of charge.
  http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/whats-on/for-families/adventure-in-suomenlinna
• Suomenlinna Fortress
  Visitors are not charged an admission fee
  http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/plan-your-visit/blue-route/
  English tour is held on Saturdays and Sundays at 1.30 p.m.
• The Suomenlinna Museum tells the story of Suomenlinna from its earliest days to the present.
  http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums/suomenlinna-museum/
  7 €
  1 October-30 April) from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm

We skipped the following:

• The exhibition at the Military Museum’s Manège charts the history of the Finnish military and Finnish soldiers across the centuries.
  http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums/manege/
  7 €
  11:00-18:00
• The Toy Museum offers a fascinating journey into the history of play.
  http://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums/toy-museum/
  6 €
  11:00-17:00
• Suomenlinna Submarine
  Closed in Winter, but we actually saw it a few days later, from the Ferry going to Estonia.

The island has about 8 km of walls, and still is an active Military school. We walked past the church, which doubles as a light house, to get to the museum (€14).

We learned about the island's history, and headed across the island to see the fortifications, the burial spot of the Fortress designer and builder, then we were off to the King's Gate.

We stopped by the dry dock on the way back, and marveled at the frozen inlets from the bay, as we head back to the North end of the Island.

16:30 We did have to run, but we did catch the Ferry.
Upon arrival, we decided to walk back to the hotel, stopping to scope out the Viking Fleet Terminal, and some neat old architecture on the way.

18:15, we took the tram to the Forum shopping center to check out the food court options, and grabbed some cookies and snacks for the train trip the next day at the Forum Alepa (€2.75).
19:18, we walked to the Train Station, and found a Hessburger in the food court... we don't usually do fast food burgers, but the special was a good price, and we were tired (€8,00).

After dinner we watched some ice skating, and took the tram back to the hotel for cookies, and to settle in.

Sunday, March 12:
6:30 Get up and read about Turku
7:20 Blitz breakfast
7:47 catch the #4 tram to the stop nearest train station, and head in to locate our train.
Helsinki - Turku VR IC 945
8:37-10:30 Coach 5 51-52

Fairly empty train, had some of our donut snacks as we crossed the snowy landscape and the frozen rivers... 6 stops to the Turku Station.

10:30, arrived, and walked to the Tourist Office, Visit Turku.

While inhabited for ages, the city of Turku was founded most likely at the end of the 13th century, making it the oldest city in Finland; as a matter of fact, originally the word "Finland" referred only to the area around Turku (even today, the southwestern portion of the country is called "Finland Proper"). One of the drivers for growth during the Middle Ages, Turku was the seat of the Bishop of Turku, covering the then eastern half of the Kingdom of Sweden (most of the present-day Finland) until the 17th century. Another driver in the development of Turku was in 1640 the first university in Finland, The Royal Academy of Turku, was founded.

10:45 At Visit Turku, we bought Turku Foli city bus passes (14,00€) and gather literature.

11:00 Walked back to Market Square and took the bus to Turku Castle. We walked all the way around the castle, then entered the Bailey and got our tickets. (20,00€)

• Visit 13th Century Turku Castle

The inner Bailey

Model of the castle

Turku Castle was begun near the Aura river about 1280. In the Middle Ages the castle was surrounded by a moat fed by the Aura, making the castle grounds an island. The keep was completed in the early 15th century. Construction of the Bailey was begun in the late 15th century and finished in the 16th. The Bailey is not as heavily fortified as the keep, but it does have several turrets. The Renaissance construction work included heavy modification of nearly all the rooms in the older medieval part of the castle, adding crossing structures, and adding floors.

The castle was bombed in the summer of 1941in the Continuation War, the renovation of the castle was interrupted by Finland's two wars with the Soviet Union, but was completed in 1987. The castle functions as a historical museum, as banquet rooms for the city of Turku, a church for the local congregation, and also has restaurants in both the main castle and the Bailey.

The renovation was mainly architectural only leaving many rooms empty... but we knew the furnishings and other goodies would be seen later, in the Bailey exhibits.

Down to the dungeon, and views of the still used Church and great halls.

Into the Bailey, and the exhibits.

13:47, Castle cafe for feta pie and apple pie with vanilla sauce, and coffee for Susann. (10,80€)

• visit Maritime Museum, Forum Marinum, and wandered the open air displays.

We walked a few blocks to the Maritime Museum, and just wandered the moored ships on display.

I don't know why they had a giant flower between the museum and the river.



The museum and cafe, and again, a the giant flower.


Note that much of the River Aura was frozen


About 2 miles down we could see the Cathedral, but the walk ways were disappearing, so we jumped up a block and waited for a bus... since we had the pass.

• visit Cathedral,

Turku Cathedral is the Mother Church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland, and is also regarded as one of the major highlights of Finnish architectural history as well as being one of the city's most recognizable symbols.

The cathedral was originally built out of wood in the late 13th century, and was dedicated as the main cathedral of Finland in 1300, though it was considerably expanded in stone during the 14th and 15th centuries. The cathedral was badly damaged during the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, but was rebuilt to the modern appearance shortly thereafter.

.

• wander past the Sibelius Museum and enjoyed the architecture. Aerial view from Google, Sibelius upper left, Cathedral lower right
  

We caught a bus back to the train station, and chatted with an Angolan resident, who told us the Finns were a bit cold, and he seemed glad to have someone to chat with.

16:30 got to the train station, and went on line to look up info on dinner options.
17:00 Boarded the train, noshed on crackers. Lots of Naval recruits on board constantly changing seats after each stop... we had reserved seats but they did not and had to move about when someone claimed a seat.

Turku - Helsinki VR IC 966
17:30-19:26 Coach 2 51-52

19:30 Arrived Helsinki.
Not a lot open at this time, and we didn't want an expensive burger, so we foolishly took a chance on Iguana, and tried Nachos. Odd beans and cheeses, on Frito chips, and marinara for some reason. (14,60€).
Enjoyed the football on the TV though.

20:46 Tram to the Alepa, to get snacks for the next day.

21:00 Tram back to hotel, hot chocolate and cookies before turning in.

Monday, March 13:

We slept in
8:00 Breakfast

9:30 Walk to Katajanokka Ferry Terminal, to check in, then headed up to the lounge to watch the traffic plowing through ice.

Arrival of the Viking M/S XPRS

10:40 boarded. No set seating... actually no real seating aside from some sofas near the stairs on each deck. You either book a room, or you go to one of the many shops, cafes, or restaurants to sit.
We got a table by the big oval window, and noshed on some of the crackers we bought earlier, and grabbed Susann a Latte from the Robert's. (5,00€)

Ferry Helsinki-Tallinn 11:30-2:30
Viking Line

We sailed by many of the hundreds of islands in the bay, and even saw the Submarine we missed earlier in the week, as we steamed to Estonia.

14:00 Arrived in Tallinn, Estonia and head for the old town.

Around 1050, the first fortress was built on Toompea, the Cathedral and Castle hill over the present city. Tallinn was an important port for trade between Russia and Scandinavia, though Danish rule of Tallinn and Northern Estonia started in 1219. The first wall around Tallinn was ordered to be constructed by Margaret Sambiria in 1265, though the walls were enlarged again in the fourteenth century,

In 1285, the city, then known as Reval, became the northern most member of the Hanseatic League. Medieval Reval was very well fortified with city walls and 66 defensive towers. In 1561, Reval became a dominion of Sweden.

Swedish Estonia capitulated to Imperial Russia in 1710, but in 1920, Russia acknowledged the independence of the Estonian Republic and Tallinn became the capital. However, after World War II started, Estonia fell to the Germans before being reoccupied by the USSR. In August 1991, an independent democratic Estonian state was established, and Tallinn became the capital 20 August, 1991.

Tallinn has historically consisted of several parts:

The Toompea or "Cathedral Hill", which was residence of the aristocracy; it is today the seat of the Estonian parliament, government and some embassies and residencies.
The Old Town, which is the old Hanseatic town and the "city of the citizens"
and the newer city.
The city of Tallinn has never been razed or pillaged, which helps explain the fantastic medieval remnants.

14:00 Approaching Fat Margaret, and heading into the old walled city


Our proposed route, and some of the newer buildings just inside the walls.

We found a round building that was a horse mill from long ago.

We started went outside the walls for a quick peek, then returned to the alleys on the interior; St. Olaf's Church was closed, but it was neat to walk around.

But the curtain walls and towers were just fantastic, with hidden treasures popping up as we went, such as an old church and tower entries.

We finally found Kodulinn towers and barbarian that we could get into; the spaces were small and the stairs were tall, but it was worth if for the views out, (4,00€)

Kodulinn towers, up even further, exploring the towers.

We then went to the town square, passing the a lot of great architecture on the way to the Guild hall.


Guild Hall, and Holy Spirit Church, with it's fantastic clock works.


We had a late lunch at Maiasmokk, the oldest cafe in Tallinn, and probably Estonia, dating from 1864. We had Quail egg soup, a savory pastry, water and latte, and grabbed some gift chocolate and marzipan. (14,50€ + ,70)

We then headed to the upper town, passing the town square again.

Then we got up to Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox Cathedral. Much hated by locals because of the Russian link, it is still beautiful.



The castle is now more of a Palace, ho hum and pink, but around the corner is Tall Herman, which was pretty neat to see.

The oldest part of the castle is back by Tall Herman, but we couldn't get there. Photo from Wiki Commons.


It was time to head back to the port, with one wrong detour through the town square, but we made our way back past Guild of the Black Heads, neat buildings and views, back to Fat Margaret.

17:00, We headed back to the ship, and boarded as car were being driven on through the open front end. We found a table by Robert's and got Susann a latte, and then bought fish and chips from one of the restaurants; plus some Estonian chocolate. (5,20+11,96€ + 1,00)

We saw many of the same people from the trip over in the morning, a familiar baby girl and women with bright red hair and bright blue hair constantly going to the bathroom... a lot of people seemed more interested in the booze than food.

Before we left, we did a lot of research on what we could see... sadly due to our timing, a lot of the museums were closed, but just wandering within the city walls was a blast.

Here are some things to do if we return:

• Optional Tallinn Card: free entry into 40 exhibits €36 each with free sightseeing tour, or €25 without tour https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng/visitor/tallinncard#get_tallinn_card_now
• The items we plan to walk past, and perhaps visit…
  Great Coastal Gate and Fat Margaret's Tower were built to protect the city from the seaside, but also to impress quests arriving by sea. The Great Coastal Gate (built at the same time with the city wall) is located in the northern part of the Old Town of Tallinn near the port. In the 16th century, during the reconstruction of the gate, the Fat Margaret's artillery tower was built nearby.
  Today, the Fat Margaret houses Estonian Maritime Museum. The Museum exhibits a remarkable collection of ship models from different eras. The viewing platform on the roof of the tower offers a view over the Old Town and the Bay of Tallinn. 6 € Tuesday–Sunday: 10:00 - 18:00 Monday closed
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/great-coastal-gate-and-fat-margarets-tower
• St Olaf's Church in Tallinn, the city's biggest medieval structure, took its name from the sainted Norwegian king Olav II Haraldsson. The church was first mentioned in 1267. It became one of the main churches in the Lower Town and formed its own congregation, which at first mostly comprised Scandinavian merchants and craftsmen and few Estonians.
  The evangelical preachings of the then chaplain of the church, Zacharias Hasse, led to the start of the reformation in Tallinn in 1523. Free
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/st-olafs-church-in-tallinn
• Eppingi, The development of Tallinn's fortifications and medieval arms and armour are the focus in this renovated tower from the 15th century. Six floors of interesting exhibits make this a great stop for the entire family. Visitors are invited to try on a selection of chainmail and armour, as well as handle medieval replica weapons. Visitors can also make a copy of Tallinn's first coin as a souvenir.  Epping tower offers a fun and educational experience for the whole family. We also welcome tour groups. All displays are in both English and Estonian. €6.00 Sat & Sun 11:00 - 16:00
  http://www.epping.ee/
• Nunna Torn, Sauna Torn, Kuldjala Torn: The Walls of Tallinn are the medieval defensive walls constructed around the city of Tallinn in Estonia.
  The first wall around Tallinn was ordered to be constructed by Margaret Sambiria in 1265 and for that reason, it was known as the Margaret Wall. This wall was less than 5 metres (16 ft) tall and about 1.5 metres (4.9 ft) thick at its base. Since that time it has been enlarged and strengthened. The walls and the many gates are still largely extant today. This is one of the reasons that Tallinn's old town became a World Heritage Site. The walls were enlarged in the fourteenth century, and citizens of Tallinn were required to turn out for guard duty, which meant to wear their armour and demonstrate their readiness to face off invaders.
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walls_of_Tallinn
• Maiden Tower, first mentioned as early as in 1373, has been reconstructed several times, but its unique architecture is still based on its trapezoidal floor plan.
  The name comes from the name of the tower commander at that time, Hinse Meghe, and was later adapted into Maiden Tower in English.
  A defense passage running from the Maiden Tower to the cannon tower of Kiek in de Kök and Bastion Passages is a unique opportunity to explore the large renovated part of medieval and modern defense zone of Tallinn during one visit.
  In the course of its history, the building has been a defense tower, a residential building and a café – some say it is still haunted! 2 € Tuesday–Sunday: 11:00 - 18:00  Monday closed 
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/maiden-tower-museum
• Kiek in de Kök Strong medieval fortification tower Kiek in de Kök (Germ. "peek in the kitchen") got its name from a legend about some soldiers in the tower who liked to peek from the top of the tower into the windows of Lower Town kitchens.
  Nowadays, the tower houses a museum that introduces the genesis of Tallinn, its development, as well as the most important war events from the 13th to the 18th century. On the basement floor, there are temporary photography exhibitions; in the armoury, you can explore various weapons and have a go on a shooting simulator.
  The café on the sixth floor affords one-of-a-kind views of Toompea, the Lower Town and the harbour.
  Guided tours of bastion passages also start at Kiek in de Kök. 5 € Tuesday–Sunday: 10:00 - 17:30 
  Monday closed 
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/kiek-in-de-kok-museum 
• Freedom Square is Tallinn's grandest public space. The monument to the War of Independence was unveiled here on Victory Day (23 June) in 2009.
  Over the years the square has gone by many names: the Straw Market, Peter's Square and Victory Square among them. It was first named Freedom Square in 1939, remaining that way until 1948. The name was readopted in 1989.
  Its location in the city centre right next to the Old Town has made Freedom Square a popular place for people to get together and spend time.
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/freedom-square-in-tallinn-and-the-monument-to-the-war-of-independence
• Estonian National Opera Designed by A. Lindgren and W. Lönn and completed in 1913, the art nouveau/classicist Estonia theatre and opera house was the largest building of its kind in Tallinn at the time.
  One of its two wings was designed as a theatre, and the other as a concert hall. The original building was destroyed during the Soviet bombings in March 1944. However, it was renovated in the latter half of the 1940's.
  Good to know: The first Estonian parliament convened in the concert hall on 23 April 1919. Advance bookings only
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/estonian-national-opera-opera-house
• The barbican of Viru Gate was part of the defense system of Tallinn city wall built in the 14th century.
  A couple of centuries later, it already had 8 gates that consisted of several towers and curtain walls connecting them. The main tower of a gate was always square and the barbicans were equipped with one or two small round towers.
  As the entrances to the Old Town were widened, several gates were demolished. The Viru Gate had to pay its dues to a horse-drawn tram route that connected the Old Market with Kadriorg.
  However, the corner towers were preserved; also, you can still see a part of the bastion that is called Musumägi. Viru Street with its many shops and restaurants has become one of the busiest pedestrian streets in the Old Town. Observed from distance
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/viru-gate
• Hellemann Tower and Town Wall Climb this 14th-century tower and stroll atop its 200m stretch of Town Wall for fantastic views of Tallinn's medieval defences.
  The three-story tower, which stands adjacent Müürivahe street next to Old Town's knit market, dates back to the 14th century and at different times was used as a prison and a weapons store.
  Nowadays it serves far more peaceful purposes: in addition to being a curiosity history-minded visitors, it houses an art gallery.  4.00€ Mon-Sun 10-18
  https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng/visitor/see-do/sightseeing/pid-177029/hellemann-tower-and-town-wall
• Catherine's Alley Catherine's Alley, formerly known as the Monk's Alley, winds its way from Vene Street past the southern end of the Dominican monastery to Müürivahe Street.
  St Catherine's church, from which the alley took its name, is thought to have been built here more than 700 years ago. The southern side of the alley is lined with predominantly 15th-17th century residences. The alley as a whole retains its medieval atmosphere. It was last restored in 1995.
  A number of handicraft workshops can be found here, in which you can watch the artists at work – creating ceramics, hats, glass and more.
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/catherines-alley
• Church of the Holy Spirit in Tallinn
  Built in the 14th century with timber interior and a hexagonal tower, the bright white Church of the Holy Spirit is one of the oldest and finest structures in Tallinn. Before entering the church, take a look at the façade with a clock that has been measuring time since the 17th century. The treasures inside include a unique altar created by Berndt Notke in the 15th century and the pulpit built in 1597.
  In medieval times, it was the main sanctuary for commoners. After the Reformation, the first Estonian sermons instead of German ones were held here, and Johann Koell's Catechism, written by the pastor of the church and published in 1535, is considered the first book in Estonian. 1.5 € Monday–Friday: 12:00 - 14:00, Saturday 10:00 - 16:00, Sunday closed 
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/church-of-the-holy-spirit-in-tallinn
• Town Hall Square has been a market place and the centre of this old Hanseatic town since the Middle Ages. It became the centre of the Lower Town at the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries.
  As a square it plays an important role today as well - in summer it is filled with outdoor cafes, plays host to the Old Town Days and other medieval festivals, is a venue for open air concerts and fairs and more. In winter it becomes a magical Christmas market, the centerpiece of which is a towering spruce tree. The tradition of celebrating Christmas festivities here dates back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads are thought to have erected the world's very first Christmas tree. Free
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/tallinn-town-hall-square
• Estonian History Museum — Great Guild Hall The mediaeval Great Guild Hall has always played an important role in the life of the city. The permanent exhibition at the History Museum "SPIRIT OF SURVIVAL. 11,000 years of Estonian History" (opened in 2011) helps to understand the singularity of the people who have lived in Estonia and introduces historical events that have affected them the most. The exhibition discloses the story of Estonian past through rooms with different topics, such as the Gun Room that tells about wars, the exhibition "Power of the Elite" that talks about the Great Guild and mediaeval trade. You can also see different currencies and take part in historical events in the interactive time capsule. 5 € Monday–Tuesday, Thursday–Sunday: 10:00 - 18:00 Wednesday closed 
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/estonian-history-museum-great-guild-hall
• House of Blackheads The House of Blackheads is the only surviving Renaissance building in Tallinn. A residence probably existed at this location already in the 14th century.
  The Brotherhood of Blackheads bought the property in the first half of the 16th century, when they also built a new hall without vaults.
  A major reconstruction took place in 1597, when the façade was redesigned in the spirit of the Renaissance architecture from the Netherlands, with its rich ornamentation and carved decorations.
  One of Tallinn’s most eye-catching painted doors dates from the 1640s. The two-nave, arched guildhall bought from the Olav Guild dates from the 15th century. Advance bookings only
  https://www.visitestonia.com/en/house-of-blackheads

Ferry Tallinn-Helsinki 18:00-20:30
Viking Line

Though it took two tries for them to decide which was the proper slip, we docked safely and disembarked fairly quickly. It was a short walk to the hotel, where we had snacks and then turned in.

Tuesday, March 14:
We had trouble sleeping so we were "up" early.

7:30 Breakfast

9:00 Went to Alepa to grab snacks. (2,54€)
9:20 tram to Uspenski Cathedral. Wow...

• Uspenski Cathedral (Uspenskin katedraali)
  Pormestarinrinne 1
  Completed in 1868 in the Katajanokka district of Helsinki, the Uspenski Cathedral is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and redbrick facade, the church is one of the clearest symbols of the Russian impact on Finnish history.
  http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/sights-and-attractions/uspenski-orthodox-cathedral    
  No Cost
  Mon closed, Tue-Fri 9.30-16, Sat 10-15, Sun 12-15

10:00 Stopped by the City Museum, but they weren't quite ready for visitors, so we walked to the Ateneum, a Modern Art museum. (30,00€ + 1,00 for locker)

• Ateneum Art Museum
  Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki
  Previously the Ateneum building also housed the Finnish Academy of Fine Arts and University of Art and Design Helsinki.
  The collections of Ateneum include extensively Finnish art all the way from 18th-century rococo portraiture to the experimental art movements of the 20th century. The collections also include some 650 international works of art. One of them is Vincent van Gogh's Street in Auvers-sur-Oise (1890): when the painting was deposited in 1903 Ateneum became the first museum in the world to own a Vincent van Gogh
  15 €
  Tue, Fri 10am–6pm Wed, Thurs 10am–8pm Sat, Sun 10am–5pm Mondays closed

12:19 Kampi Chapel is a small architectural wooden marvel nestled next to the Forum... the chapel is used for meditation for the busy folk downtown.



Next door was the Forum, so we had lunch at Arnold's: toasties, drink, and donuts. (15,80€)

13:09 took Tram 10 to the Finnish Design Museum; they were renovating, so we got a discounted entry. (10,00€)
From Glass design, to fiskars, to metal chairs to round chairs.

14:00 Took the tram back to the City Museum. VR exhibit on the ground floor, businesses they way they would have looked, and maps on the next floor, and some swings on the top floor, and a guess the Helsinki smell exhibit.

• Helsinki City Museum
  Aleksanterinkatu 16, 00170 Helsinki, Finland
  The museum is an overall experience with the milieu, exhibitions and indoor decoration telling about daily life in the Helsinki of the past.
  http://www.helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi/en/
  Always free
  Mon–Fri 11–19 Sat–Sun 11–17

15:09 Tram 4 up north to Kansallis Musea, the National Museum of Finland. Off season, so part was closed for renovation, but no discounted entry. (20,00€)
Sadly, compared to something like the British Museum, not much going on... of course Finland has only been a country for 100 years, and before that was not very populous until the 1800s when Sweden built up Helsinki for its port areas. And again, part was closed, so it is hard to judge the museum as a whole... but we did like the travel posters.



All Finnish churches have a model ship, so the exhibit on Finnish churches did too. The Throne room, for when Tsars visited, was pretty cool.

• National Museum of Finland
  The National Museum of presents Finnish history from the Stone Age to the present day, through objects and cultural history. The Finnish National Romantic style building is located in central Helsinki and is a part of the National Board of Antiquities
  The permanent exhibitions of the National Museum are divided into six parts. The Treasure Troves presents the collections of coins, medals, orders and decorations, silver, jewelry and weapons. Prehistory of Finland is the largest permanent archaeological exhibition in Finland. The Realm presents of the development of Finnish society and culture from the Middle Ages 12th century to the early 20th century, through the Swedish Kingdom Period to the Russian Empire Era. The "Land and Its People" presents Finnish folk culture in the 18th and 19th centuries, life in the countryside before the industrialization.
  http://www.kansallismuseo.fi/en/nationalmuseum
  10 €
  Tue-Sun 11 am - 6 pm, closed Mon

Some of the places we might try, if we return:

• Sinebrychoff Art Museum
  The collections of the Sinebrychoff Art Museum include some of the most valuable and internationally important paintings by old European masters to be found in Finland.
  http://www.sinebrychoffintaidemuseo.fi/en/
  Free admission
  Tuesday 11–18 Wednesday Thursday 11–20 Friday 11–18 Saturday Sunday 10–17

• Hakasalmi Villa City Museum
  Mannerheimintie 13b
  historically valuable building. It was built between 1843-1846 by the procurator governor and privy counselor Carl Johan Walleen as the family summer place. German-born architect Ernst Lohrmann designed the building of the neoclassical style; the English Garden was completed in 1847. In 1896, the City of Helsinki bought the villa.
  The villa is located opposite the Finlandia Hall next door. Originally, it was located some distance outside the city, on the beach, but  gradually filled when the railway yard was expanded.
  http://hakasalmivilla.fi/
  Free
  Tue–Sun 11–17 Thu 11–19
• Tram City Museum Kulturfabriken Korjaamo
  Töölönkatu 51 A
  At the Tram Museum, you can take a seat in an old tram that instantly transports you to the Helsinki of yesteryear. Let your imagination wander as you sit in the driver’s seat, watch films and study old tram tickets. You can also practice stamping a tram ticket the way it was done in the old days.
  http://trammuseum.fi/
  Free
  Mon–Sun 11–17

16:30 Back to the Forum, and Kebap at Eerikin Pippuri (18,50€)
We should have just bought one, and split it, but we tend to splurge on the last meal of the trip.

17:15 Stopped by the Alepa in the Forum for gum for the next day's flight. (,93€)

18:00 Our last tram ride back to the hotel, to pack.

Wednesday, March 15:
Yellow Line to HEL 4:00-5:00 Prompt pick up and uneventful ride to the airport. Fairly easy check in and boarding.
HEL-AMS 7:00-8:50 KLM 1164 After clearing security, we wandered until we found our gate.
AMS-MSP 10:40-13:54 DL 161 Long layover, lots of walking, and dinner at PF Chang. Passed on opportunity to stay the night and fly out the next day.
MSP-AUS 17:35-20:29 DL 5145
AUS-Home 21:00-22:30

Maps

More maps below

More maps below

More maps below

Hotel Katajanokka, a former prison

Helsinki Attractions:

More maps below

Close up

More maps below

Turku Attractions

Another Map below

Tallinn Attractions

Sites I used while on the Road

Cheap Eats in Finland Hel Yeah http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/stay-and-enjoy/eat/food-helsinki-hel-yeah
(Zoomable) http://www.visithelsinki.fi/en/sites/visithelsinki.fi/files/files/Liitteet/food_helsinki_hel_yeah_map.pdf

Map of Tallinn (zoomable) https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng/visitor/plan/map
pdf map and brochure balticadventure.com/download/905/tallinn%20city%20map.pdf
Tallin restaurants https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng/visitor/eat-drink/restaurants
Tallinn in your pocket https://www.inyourpocket.com/data/download/tallinn.pdf